The French capital hosted Fashion Week. Amidst abnormal heat and celebrities in the front rows, it also left us with memorable major debuts. From tributes to secret archives to numerous floral motifs and voluminous silhouettes – it was grand. Vogue.ua shares the most striking looks from Paris Fashion Week.
Bodysuit of Flexible Silicone from Schiaparelli
In creating the collection, Schiaparelli’s designer Daniel Roseberry sought a material that resembled human skin. However, near Paris, he discovered a studio that worked with silicone, crafting prosthetics for the film industry. This sparked the idea to create pieces that would mimic human skin and form. The collection featured tops, jackets, and bustiers that resembled silk fabric. The final look was a white silicone bodysuit in the form of a female torso, complemented by a fringed skirt of sequins and silver heeled boots – a true ode to Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist motifs. Hours after the show, we saw this dress on Zendaya at the London premiere of “Challengers”.
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Schiaparelli
Wrap Jacket with a Deep Slit from Dior
Christian Dior’s creative director, Jonathan Anderson, presents a couture narrative inspired by flora and contemporary art, combined with sophisticated materials. The Irish designer reinterprets the iconic New Look silhouette, moving away from strict lines towards more voluminous forms and fabric draping. One of the collection’s standout looks is a green jacket with floral embossing, fastened at the front with a wrap. Thanks to a visually cinched waist and a flared skirt, the silhouette appears elongated and elegant. Fringe, a trend for several seasons now, completes the striking ensemble.
Christian DIor
Costume Jewelry from Chanel
Coco Chanel introduced costume jewelry to Paris after a trip to Hollywood in the 1930s, where she went to create costumes during the golden age of American cinema. Since then, costume jewelry and chunky faux pearl pieces have become signature elements of the House. In the new haute couture collection, the House’s creative director, Virginie Viard, offers a fresh take on iconic costume jewelry: it adorns the collar of a classic tweed jacket and serves as a waist belt. There’s an abundance of it.
Chanel
Emerald Dress from Armani Privé
For Silvana, Giorgio Armani’s niece, this couture collection marked her debut. As she told the Italian press after the show, her main goal was to continue Armani’s legacy. The new collection remains faithful to the House’s tenets: elegance in every creation. Although trousers, which Silvana Armani herself prefers over skirts, are a key element, the signature evening gowns are, as always, luxurious. Particular attention is drawn to an emerald-colored dress with a sequin-embellished bra – the silhouette flows from the center downwards, creating a voluminous yet recognizable outline for the red carpet.
Armani Privé
Dress with Thousands of Colored Sequins from Balenciaga
In nearly 20 years of working with brands that boast couture ateliers, Pierpaolo Piccioli has repeatedly proven his mastery of highly artisanal techniques. For his debut collection at Balenciaga, he created a narrative that reinterprets the archives of Cristóbal Balenciaga himself. It reflects the signature style, inspired by Spanish Baroque and the relaxed silhouettes of the 1960s. Among the vibrant and detailed creations, a maxi dress stands out, with a hemline shorter in the front and a long train. Its main accent is thousands of hand-sewn colored sequins in the shape of feathers. From a distance, the dress appears massive and theatrical; however, upon closer inspection, the sequins lend it a surprising lightness.
Balenciaga
Whimsical Bubbles by Robert Wun
Taiwanese designer Robert Wun pushes beyond traditional fashion shows, creating theatrical presentations that might seem fanciful in an era of more commercial and visually appealing events. In his latest collection, he delves into his own childhood, collaborating with Japanese animator Hayao Miyazaki. Wun strives to depict animated fairy tales that speak of humanity, fear, violence, and faith. He embodies the fragility and delicacy of our present day in a look where several exaggerated bubbles emerge from the model’s torso. They are an homage to childhood dreams that can easily burst in the adult world. The allegory of our existence through the lens of fashion is what Robert Wun conveys in his collection.
Robert Wun
Dress with a Skirt from Jean Paul Gaultier
In his debut collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, Dutchman Duran Lantink aimed to master the time-honored French Haute Couture techniques. This time, he drew inspiration from pre-revolutionary France through a futuristic lens. The protagonists of this spectacle were Louis XIV, Marie Antoinette, and their residence – the magnificent Versailles. Amidst the exaggerated pieces and accessories characteristic of the designer, there are also homages to Jean Paul Gaultier’s own archives, who, at the end of the show, applauded and smiled sincerely, seated in the front row next to Catherine Deneuve. Worth noting is the ivory-colored dress, crafted with layering, where the hem is shortened in the front, and the fabric resembles the pastry layers of a French mille-feuille. The voluminous yet delicate corseted bottom of the dress was complemented by a fitted top and silver earrings resembling the tassels of Versailles curtains.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Art Deco Tunic with a Deep Neckline from Fendi
This time, Fashion Week concluded not in Paris, but in Rome: it was here that Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted her couture for Fendi. About a year ago, she presented her last collection for Christian Dior in Rome, and now she continues to create in her hometown for a new employer, with whom Chiuri once began her career. After the show, the designer shared that her main task was to activate the work of all Fendi ateliers: from accessories to the fur atelier. Despite a rather laconic selection of pieces, several looks exuded vibrancy – among them, an ivory Art Deco-style tunic with silver fringe and cutouts that, when in motion, transport us to the jazz age.
Fendi
Text: Vova Motrychuk