The fashion world eagerly anticipated Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first haute couture collection for Balenciaga. At the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, the designer presented a debut that not only opened a new chapter in the French House’s history but also offered a fresh perspective on high fashion. Instead of theatrical couture existing solely for the runway, Piccioli showcased pieces where exceptional haute couture craftsmanship is combined with ease, freedom of movement, and real life. “Haute couture has been associated with something far removed from reality for too long. Today, true modernity is linked to people’s lives, to their everyday existence. I like the idea of creating pieces that remain couture in essence, but can also exist in everyday life,” explained the designer.
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While Balenciaga was previously primarily associated with dramatic volumes, total black, and almost architectural silhouettes, Piccioli proposed a different interpretation of the House’s legacy. The central theme became lightness, freedom of movement, and the natural connection of clothing to the body.
The new Balenciaga couture blends nonchalance with luxury. Voluminous silhouettes coexist with pieces that can easily be imagined in an everyday wardrobe. Strict tailoring intertwines with sheer fabrics, soft textures, and light silhouettes, with comfort emerging as the ultimate luxury.
One of the most striking looks of the show was a long ivory coat paired with orange trousers embroidered with organza petals. Equally spectacular was the appearance of Gigi Hadid, who walked the runway in a sculptural bustier completely covered in feathers. The ensemble, created in collaboration with legendary milliner Philip Treacy, literally blurred the line between clothing and the art of hat-making.
One of the most innovative aspects of the collection was the technology used to create cashmere coats and dresses through 3D body scanning. Designers first scan a model’s figure, then create a three-dimensional mockup of the future silhouette. If a client wishes to order this look, their body is scanned, and the construction is adapted to their individual proportions. The form is then printed in resin using a 3D printer and used as a personalized mannequin.
Thus, Balenciaga merges digital technologies, traditional craftsmanship, and the art of haute couture, effectively establishing a new standard for personalized couture.
The collection also marks the debut of Amsilk, an innovative renewable material with a silky texture, whose production is independent of fossil fuels. Piccioli also continued to work with neo-gazar, a modern interpretation of the iconic fabric created by Cristóbal Balenciaga himself. It is this material that shapes the architectural silhouettes of the new collection, combining lightness with complex construction. The designer also reimagined the iconic City Bag, which he had already reintroduced in the Spring-Summer 2026 collection. It now appears in a couture rendition – crafted from silver metal and pink crystal mesh.
Instead of nostalgia or a literal reinterpretation of archives, the designer offered an entirely new vision for Balenciaga – deeply connected to the brand’s heritage, yet directed towards the future. And it seems this debut has become one of the most compelling couture shows of the season.
Based on materials from vogue.fr.